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1926 Lefever Nitro Special

 
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Brian
Sideplate


Joined: 01 Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Location: Warren, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:02 pm    Post subject: 1926 Lefever Nitro Special Reply with quote

When just a teenager in 1980, I inherited this Nitro Special from my Grandfather. I've used it for skeet and hunting ever since. Still works great. I didn't realize how old it was until I stumbled across this forum and looked up the serial number. Does anyone know what the letters PT stamped on the underside of the barrel means? They are located on the latch for the fore stock.










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ADG
Site Admin


Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 145
Location: Low Country, South Carolina

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Brian, and welcome to the forum! I'm moving this post to the "Lefever Firearms" section where it may receive more attention and perhaps an answer to your query. Even though this gun was not designed or produced by D.M. Lefever, participants here are still happy to share their knowledge of Ithaca-made Nitro Specials with folks. Glad you still have your grandpa's gun.
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"A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercise, I advise the gun...it gives boldness, enterprise and independence to the mind...Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks." - Thomas Jefferson, 1785
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2-Piper
Optimus


Joined: 01 Mar 2007
Posts: 645
Location: Lynchburg, TN

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian;
I am not 100% positive on this & perhaps someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that PT mark stands for "Proof Tested". While due to its age & particularly for the wood's sake I would not recommend a lot of heavy loads be used the Nitro special was introduced after the intro of the "New" in the early 20's "High Velocity" shells loaded with progressive burning powders & as such is suitable for use with off the shelf ammunition.
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Brian
Sideplate


Joined: 01 Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Location: Warren, Michigan

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks ADG and 2-Piper.
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sidebyside16
Optimus


Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 577

PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also heard that the PT stands for proof tested. I'll also agree with Miller on the use of heavy loads being hard on these old guns. Some proof of that is seen in the pictures showing the split off sliver of wood on the left side of your buttstock where it meets the top of the frame, and a split in the same place on the right side. Your gun obviously has sentimental value and is otherwise in nice shape, so it would be a good idea to repair the split and replace the missing sliver before more damage occurs. Done properly, these repairs should be difficult to see.
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DrBob
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Joined: 04 Mar 2007
Posts: 617
Location: Fairview, NC

PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same splits on my Nitro. What is the best repair? I have had suggestions of Agra-glass versus a glued in new piece of wood on each side. I only shoot field loads in it, but I shoot rounds of 25 at the trap range.
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sidebyside16
Optimus


Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 577

PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the wood is clean and oil-free, or can be thoroughly degreased, a type II wood glue such as Titebond II will give the most invisible repair. Even with Acraglas or other clear epoxy, it is important to completely degrease the wood. I start with ammonia which saponifies oils, and rinse with water. I then progress to various solvents ranging from isopropyl alcohol up to lacquer thinner or acetone. These will, of course, remove finish. Firm clamping of the original wood and a close fit is important. If the piece is not completely broken off, spread the crack slightly to get glue or epoxy down deep. Do not clamp so tightly as to squeeze out all of the glue. I try to use rubber surgical tubing, strips of inner tube, or the like for clamping irregular stock surfaces. If it is necessary to splice in a new piece of walnut, it is important to have a good supply of various scraps of different color, grain, density, pore structure, etc., and spend a lot of time looking for a piece that will closely match the original wood. The broken area is planed smooth and the new piece closely fitted and glued and clamped. The end result will be a function of how clean you get the crack or repair area, how closely you match a patch or the original broken piece, and how closely you can fit the pieces together. Done right, it will look like it was never broke, and will be as strong or stronger than original. We've all seen what done wrong looks like.
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